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BELLIES AND BABIES: Procreation in Botswana

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I am on the outside now like my childless aunt/ the one we all hated because my uncle doted on her// she didn’t like children you could tell/ and wore silk dresses that had to be dry-cleaned/ how extravagant said my mother she’s spoiled said the other aunts/ who were busy in their polyester blends busy with their kids//…when I stole two of her chocolates/ and poked holes into the rest left in the box/ she knew enough not to complain/ and kept her squashed candies to herself 
                                                      - Play, Denise Duhamel

My nephew X.L. – yes those are his initials and although he is still a tiny little mite all signs point to his growing into his name – had a sleep over with aunty a couple of weeks ago. He does not poke holes in my candies, he is my borrowed candy. Other than randomly waking up at 2am to ask where his dad is (and then with a pragmatism far beyond his three years promptly returning to sleep when it became apparent that he was not his regular home) he is an absolute joy. Of course all day long he demands this, and yanks me that way, and we have to practice our pleases and thank yous but I take it that’s par for the course. Aren't children wonderful? Of course. Are they are gift? Without a doubt. Do children bring joy to all around them? How can they not. Is pregnancy a truly joyous experience? I hope so. Can labour be utterly traumatizing? Oh yes. Are you a bad mother for feeling overwhelmed and demanding your fair share of social support? Taken over by something that demands you give all of yourself even when you don’t feel able to? Somewhere between mastitis and a small dimpled face lies a plethora of answers.

Children are a big deal here. One hopes everywhere. Older parents want to be grandparents and fleet wildly between emotional blackmail and gentle persuasion to get what they want. In Botswana its not uncommon for someone who hasn’t seen you since you were both ten to say, “What you have no kids! You are running out of time better make a plan”. Culture should be a springboard but it can also be a cage, personally I feel the appropriate response to agenda pushing strangers, who aren't at all sensitive to infertility or choice, is to firmly place then forcefully push the base of your palm against their nosey nose but I doubt irritation would be an acceptable defense so its probably best to write something instead. Except that just as I began to blog about strangers and random drama I got sucked into the beautiful world of babies and tradition. So I’ll moan another day.

Seeing as I think no one has to be told how to make babies we’ll skip that stage and move on to how Batswana traditionally handle all the bits post conception.

1. Pregnancy: For local young women the question was hardly ever the TV-like, “Have you started having sex?’ Rather, it was the statement, “she’s sharing her blankets that one”. Old women seemed to be able to take one look at the way a female they had raised was now walking, her complexion and her nose (yes apparently it grows bigger/changes) and ‘guess’ with eerie accuracy that she was expecting often before/just as she knew it herself.

2. Delivery: Home delivery with a traditional mid wife, would obviously have been the only choice for most women many, many years ago.The country's first referral hospital began operating in 1967 doubling as the maternity clinic, however there were mission hospitals as far back as the 1920s. These days hospitals with their bright lights and loud-sometimes-aggressive nurses are around every other corner.  

3. Confinement/ maternal seclusion: as a general traditional rule Batswana new borns are seen by as few people as possible. This confinement period is known as botsetsi. Some tribes keep the community and the father away from his child for anything from as long as it takes the umbilical stump to fall off to a three month period. The mother would keep herself from the father of her child and certainly other men, with no intimate contact from just prior to delivery to until their agreed upon culture allows intimacy. 

“They both (parents) let me do what I thought was right. When I had my first child I came home to my mom’s where I stayed for three months. No entering the kitchen, no visitors allowed – which is what I wanted too. I basically sat around and did nothing but feed, bathe and play with my baby. I got fed (lots of soft sorghum porridge). Bathed myself, was taught to put sea salt in the bath to tighten stretched muscles (I think). I didn’t take the baby out, except to go to the doctor…uneventful. I knew that my son would be named for his grandpa. Fortunately I like the name.  I chose the daughter’s name”. WM, 50

4. Naming rights: This seems to be up in the air. Some parents have chosen the children's names together, other couples have had to manage parental interference. If the child is of one of the royal families and male, or the family has a culture of repeating names there is likely to be much more interference with the naming. The Botswana Children's Act of 2009 states that every child has  a right to an identity and name, from birth, which neither stigmatizes nor demeans the dignity of that child, unfortunately for you it doesn't care who gets to name the child. Also in all likelihood the younger the mother is or if she was unmarried the more likely it was that things would be done according to maternal-parental preference. At the end of the confinement period a child was normally 'brought out' and his/her name announced. It was not unusual that this would be in the form of a ceremony with members of the community present, some offering gifts to the new born, others there to eat.

5. Breastfeeding:  The belief was that if a new father lay with the mother of his child she was likely to conceive too soon and terminate the baby’s food supply,  that breast milk dries up or diminishes once a woman conceives as it begins to turn into colostrum in preparation for the pea still in its pod. Remember the context, this was mostly pre-contraceptives and the mother would have been the only food source Jfor her infant for those crucial first months, not all mothers would have been able to afford bottle feeding. And even if their milk supply didn’t diminish drastically they might suffer from breastfeeding aversion. Either way the idea was to look out for the baby until it could at least eat some solids. Of course, Botswana struggled with HIV/AIDS as of the late 80s and given how one falls pregnant quite a number of women were infected. They would receive free milk from the clinic and be encouraged to avoid breastfeeding their offspring. The country now has one of the most effective Prevention of Mother to Child Transmission (PMTCT) programs and a high majority of new borns are born HIV free even though their mothers are infected. The elders with their age old insistence on breastfeeding have had to learn to factor in some new variables.

6. Babies out of wedlock: Not unlike most cultures, either now or at some point in their evolution, having a child out of wedlock was frowned upon or … rather it was an opportunity for some members of the community to gossip about one. Traditionally a pregnant, unwed mother was asked/expected to declare to her family who the father was. Not surprisingly we were/are? a male-dominated culture and every child takes on not only the name of his/her father (or for a few the father's first name as the child's last name) but also his totem. This was important as you do not eat the meat/flesh of your totem. This was taboo and to not eat it you must know what it is. My mother's totem is kgabo which depending on your clan is either the hottest part of a flame or a baboon, but my father's, and therefore my own, is the predator - which is unusually vague as often its  a very specific animal but there you have it. Back to the unweds, if said father was smart he would inform his own family that he was expecting a child and they would immediately and, for want of a better phrase, turn themselves in. Not the 'boy' but his uncles would approach the girl's family (her maternal uncles as representatives of her family) and declare themselves the culprits. A series of meetings would ensue, a question of whether the boy intended to marry would arise, at the end of the negotiations often the boy's family would offer a cow to the girl's family as atonement. Only then could the paternal relations declare the child as one of their own. By extension I assume you'd hardly be consulted in naming the child if you weren't yet acknowledged as the father and perhaps most importantly even after confinement it would be either impossible or awkward to visit with your child. Basically, we didn't (officially) date or take lovers and it would be impossible to explain to the community who 'the strange boy' visiting your compound was even though by then everyone would know he was the father. In short the society used all of its might, falling short of shunning, to encourage marriage and contain pregnancy within that context.

Infertility: If one assumes language develops around what is most important to it, in an attempt to become more efficient as a communication tool, then you should know that there is in Setswana a word for a woman who cannot conceive a child, it is in the feminine and I have yet to hear a masculine equivalent. There is this as well, a children's folktale (not as scary as it sounds) whose title loosely translates to 'The barren woman'. It involves manifesting a daughter out of cow caul and naming the child after it, I think. Don't quote me on this last bit, I'll ask around. In reality, a woman -read couple- who could not conceive would often be given a child i.e. a relative would have a child and hand over them over for informal adoption, which could believe it or not be open or closed.

Indigenous Traditional Knowledge 
Traditional midwives served in place of neo natal check ups and lamaze classes. They massaged the expectant mother regularly and spoke to her about her diet. A pregnant woman would be told not to eat certain foods such as liver as it would cause too much bleeding, in reality liver contains high amounts of vitamin A which can build up in the body and cause harm to the unborn baby. I remember over hearing elder women speak when I was a child and one was saying while looking at her pregnant granddaughter, “If she keeps eating eggs she’s going to regret that during labour”. I'm told the worry was two fold, avoid eating eggs at all rather than specify soft/raw eggs and concerns that high amounts of protein would make for a big baby and that would have, I suspect, been a bona fide danger before the introduction of caesarian sections and other hospital care. There were rumors of an old woman who lived in Bontleng, a kind of working class neighborhood in the city, who was legendary for being able to massage a breech baby into the cephalic (which is fancy talk for head down) position.

After giving birth the new mother had a strong support system mainly centered around an elder female relative. She taught the new mother how to care for the new born, ensured no one, especially not males got anywhere near the baby, that the new mother did not engage in any form of intimacy with any men including her husband/baby daddy and stayed up with the baby to relieve the mother where necessary. They also quietly kept an eye on her to make sure she did not suffer from any post partum depression especially to any degree that might invite her to harm the child or herself. Basically for three months you were never ever left alone.

Cravings
To my amusement lots of women who were pregnant in the 90s seemed to be unable to stop themselves from eating anthills (geophagy). Yes, ant hills you read that right. The soft and crumbly sand seemed to be every where in the city and pregnant women would stop under the shade of some tree and pick out the soil and eat it. I’m sure there’s some crucial nutrient that can be found in there, and these women instinctively sensed that, if not well no ones ever died of it as far as I know. These days the antenatal care is fairly strong and any deficiencies are often addressed by the doctors early on. The upwardly mobile urban mommies-to-be also take over-the-counter vitamins in the lead up to and during pregnancy.

Exercise 
Seeing as there were no lamaze classes (actually even in 2013 I'm not sure theres a single class in town) expectant and new mommies were always encouraged to walk daily within the compound but to avoid stepping on other folk's footprints - don't ask, something to do with bad karma or some such superstition.

Superstitions/taboos
Some of the superstitions around bellies and birth are:
-      -  A local habit is/was to walk guests half way back home after a visit. A pregnant woman never walked (saw) friends/visitors out because she then had to walk back home and the belief was that on the delivery day the baby would make progress and then regress mimicking this walking out and back of the mother. I suspect the idea was to never have the pregnant woman out walking (back) unaccompanied.
-       -  Women who had miscarried or lost babies through other means were not to be allowed near the new born
-        -  Women on their monthly cycle were encouraged to visit at a different time
-      -  Only pre pubescent children were allowed to touch the cutlery of or eat the food left over by a new mother, and it was often kept apart from everyone else's silverware
-  - Sexually active/mature teenagers were to keep their distance. There is an illness that sometimes befalls new borns quite early on, I have no idea what its called in English. It makes them heavy headed, weak necked and causes them to hold their bodies stiffly or in an otherwise unnatural manner. It was believed that this was due to having lots of promiscuous/sexually active men around the baby. These men were said to have maoto a molele which translates to hot feet, this was believed to be the cause/point of transmission for the illness to the baby. There were elderly women who were known to cure this condition using herbs and smoke, sometimes secretly recommended by trained nurses if a young mother came to the hospital with a child showing these symptoms. Not for money, but because they believed the child would otherwise die if left to the medical system. Your call. These days we have pediatricians, antibiotics and all sorts of professional specialists.
-       -  A new mother who is still breastfeeding does not cook food especially not for other people to eat. There are still lots of people who observe this taboo. Whether this was a clever way to ensure that the new mother could focus on her young and not be called upon to perform home keeping duties or whether they honestly found her somehow unclean I couldn’t say.
-     - When using cloth diapers, which was certainly exclusively the case during the time I was born, new mothers were taught to never leave diapers on the line/out at night. Depending who you speak to either someone would bewitch the child or the child would get diarrhea.
     -The reasons for seclusion vary but popularly it is a spiritual one: ‘adults carry around with them a variety of energies, all of which are extremely potent for newborn babies. They haven't built up their 'spiritual immunity' at that age.’ Think (also) bacteria in the time of no antibiotics.
     -Post delivery once the new mother was in confinement a log was often placed at the door of her hut/ at the entrance of the compound, this was a symbol that indicated the presence of a new born and to indicate that no one (except her female caretakers – grandmother/mother etc) should enter that space.
     -Not too long after all this pomp and fair the elders begin to demand a younger sibling for the child. Seeing signs everywhere – if, as children are wont to do, your child should bend over and look between their legs at something behind them the elders will be up in arms, “Look, he/she is calling his/her sibling. Its time you made another one”. Of course traditionally the more children you had the larger a workforce for the farm or homestead, also children didn't always survive to adulthood and its not to say children can stand-in for each other but you had a large enough number to help you sleep at night, and so this encouragement was likely as emotional as it was practical.

MODERNITY
Of course the city now is a different space - as far as some elders are concerned a foreign country entirely - pregnant women go clubbing, baby showers are hosted in the 7th/8th month and as such the expectant mother is out somewhere, women deliver with their partners in the room and they go back to their own homes not their mothers/mother-in-laws for confinement. Often there is no confinement, friends are allowed to visit and touch the new born as soon as it draws it's first breath. The baby’s father lives in house so as soon as the woman feels recovered, or the man insists (power imbalances exist everywhere), or the doctor says she is/should be recovered from labour the couple resumes intimacy. There are also the daddy showers (still a very, very small number of men hosting these) that happen in the city.

The father still chooses the degree of involvement in terms of early child care and some men match the care a woman would have received from the traditional system, still others come home demanding dinner and are ‘too tired’ to help with the baby, after all the mother’s been home all day ‘doing nothing’ or ‘babies are women’s business’. Best choose your mate carefully, I suppose. Dare I say some Batswana men have never been anywhere near a small baby and may even have been told that they were…o kgaetse… i.e. you are effeminate/emasculated if you hung around small babies/girls too much while growing up. So perhaps the women should buy an idiots guide to daddyhood or hold their own daddy classes at home prior to the birth and talk about what to expect as a new father. I doubt all the men would be open to this but I do think some are waiting for an invitation to participate in the experience beyond conception and school fee paying. Common sense is often not as common as culture.

Speaking of common or not cultures, my Zimbabwean friend (SC, 32) who is married to a Motswana has had to observe confinement thrice. This meant moving out of her marital home into her in-laws so her Mother-in-law (M-I-L) could take care of her. Of course in this day and age, your M-I-L is probably not around the corner ploughing, she’s gone off to work so in some cases it’s a tricky balance trading your comfort for the illusion of honouring culture.  SC's M-I-L does not have satellite TV, works 8 hour days and doesn’t have a housekeeper. In addition confinement is particularly difficult for SC as her own culture does not observe this seclusion period beyond the first 10 days of waiting for the umbilical cord stump to fall off at which point the child may be exposed to the world via visitors.

Sometimes the compromise is to observe seclusion for the first born child only, to allow the older woman to teach the younger one how to care for her baby, perhaps take the load off her while she physically recovers from labour and delivery and take turns watching the baby at night. And not going into strict confinement for the second or later children.

“I think that it was the most precious time I spent with the boys. They were still young and we had just been 'introduced' to one another, so it was a very important bonding experience for both/ all of us. 
It also gave me time to recuperate from the pregnancy and birth, which take their toll on a woman's body.” NC, age 30











While NC observed the three months of maternal seclusion for both her pregnancies which meant the father of her children was not allowed to see her during this botsetsi, by her own admission “it wasn't super strict; I was allowed to take my driving test when my eldest was about two weeks old”. The rest of that time she was expected to be home all the time. If you are wondering how not being allowed to be with the father of your children is not ‘super strict’ consider this, part of the culture often dictates that the mother has her head shaved and that she be fed an uninspiring but healthy diet of motogo (soft porridge) which is believed to encourage milk production and I’m sure is unlikely to cause constipation. Although NC found she gravitated to motogo anyway she could eat what she pleased and did not have to shave her head. By the way, our (majority of Batswana) women’s hair does not grow the x number of inches a year that you read about on the net or if it does, given its crumpled-helix-like structure, it doesn’t show so it takes us years to get any length on it so cutting it can be mildly traumatic. NC also had a non Motswana friend who came to visit but mostly only family, mainly her mother and maternal aunts, handled her young.

Flashback to 2012: "Congratulations! you're an aunt", text message from one of my friends along with the usual name, time and weight details except it ends with, "Don't worry you don't have to see the baby until you are absolutely comfortable doing that. Kisses". Just about all of my friends have children and all are well aware that I'd rather visit once the baby is a big baby and not while its … so fresh. Superstitions aside unless you were raised by wolves, no wait even then, you don't exist in a cultural vacuum. Somewhere between walking down the French Quarter in New Orleans and visiting my great grandmother, tradition can seem a familiar and soothing beast and I like to pick and choose what to carry forward and what to scrap. I'm also just really wary of holding anything sentient that can't land on its feet should the need arise :-).

The mouth that cooks: a difficult lot

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For whom do you shatter
And when
Do you decide which man
To sit on the floor for
The book says cleave, it says abandon your father
And your mother you worry less about
She doesn’t own a face
And has taught you all your life to leave
It is rebellion enough here to eat, first
The mouth that cooks, swallows last
And you cling
To your last name as though you would get to keep it
No need to look up
When the man who marries you
Will come one day unannounced
Gather witnesses to whom you may say no
Try it, there are stages easier to conquer
Than strangers who know your father’s ways
Say no, try it and watch them
trade gifts for your sanctity anyway
You are precious, duct tape and sand
You peel and stick were you are sent
Your youth has taught you to make mud pies
To eat dirt, laughing
Despite yourself your education is thorough
Someone always has an open mouth here
a hand raised
praying for rain
preying on pain
Either way you are grateful
A temporary wetness to
Hide your face and tide your sins over
There is no bathroom here to lock yourself 
Hysterical, into
So cry when it rains
The land is as much desert here
As the world is water
Still your burden is leavened by night
Later, when you wake with the dream
Still a soliloquy on your tongue
Do not show off how light your load is
You whose pants are stuffed
Inside the bag you almost left at some
Middle of nowhere petrol station
Where the bus stopped and you returned
Suddenly in your Sunday skirt with your head
wrapped colourful
Poems are easier to remember
Than this, a million ways to be correct
And your body splits in all the wrong places
Your boyish thighs too easily fall apart
at the memory of denim
Your back misses a chair
Your lips say doo not du
The woman who brought fattening herbs
To your mother, for you, laughs
And touches you without asking
And you just remember
To smile nothing
Too soft, she whimpers
Distraught at the absence of calluses
You are incensed because you want to be good
At everything, even this
Though you do not really care
The way no one here cares about the lullabies
The city sings you, those midnight whistles
Can only be heard by dogs, and women
Whose boots are longer than their skirts
The ones who sleep with everyone’s husband
And go to bed alone and you
Cannot admit that you know this song
Know urban royalty, boys who know no kraals
That you have seen the emperor’s old thing
Waving in place of his rumoured clothes
To see freedom you must chase it
But before you catch a whiff of it
There is corn to pound
Chafe to blow into the wind
Some child to jar to sleep against your spine
Before you see its shadow
There is a bucket to carry
Water to fetch
For the men who come with their dust
As though their noise were gold
You fetch a bowl of water and food
You practice how to shatter
Bend both knees
And all the women clap
At how beautifully you fall
Far away from here you meet
A boy who says stay
The way you are
So you leave because no man
With sons worth bearing would dare
Not ask you to change
Janus, your daughters' worlds are mouths
They fall full of hope
That some mother somewhere
Knows enough to teach her son

What to eat and how much to leave behind

ON HAVING NEVER LEFT

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Held in Seattle the 2014 Association of Writers and Writing Programs (AWP) literary conference is often billed as the largest literary conference in North America. And so at the invitation of the African Poetry Book Fund I packed a relatively small bag and went off to attend my first AWP. Basically Americans like their trucks (read van) long wheel based, their drinks extra large, their food portions unmanageable and the AWP was no different - x number of floors, 13000 readers and writers in attendance as well as over 700 exhibitors represented in the book fair over a period of three days. Three days of negotiating with myself between way too many panels and readings happening at the same time but better an embarrassment of riches Botswana than nothing at all hey? We've work to do, our own way but hopefully soon.


That I also got to spend time with Kwame Dawes and Chris Abani was the whole point, I'm not flying half way across the world without the threat of brilliant minds for company. I finally got to meet American-Egyptian coptic poet Matthew Shenoda who very generously prefaced my chapbook Mandible (we'll talk a bit more about Mandible in a future entry, for now feel free to pre-order it alongside 6 other chapbooks by the seven new generation African poets) and give my thanks in person. Listening to Gabeba Baderoon is always, always a pleasure its no easy feat to write and read beautifully and with such grace. That cocktail of skills don't always come from together if you know what I mean. My personal favorite discovery, just call me Cristoforo Colombo, was Ladan Osman who was also recently named winner of the 2014 Sillerman First Book Prize for African Poets for her manuscript The Kitchen Dweller's Testimony. Look her up, you can thank me later.



The entire experience was hectic-beautiful especially the Kofi Awoonor memorial reading where Kofi Anyidoho, Abani, Baderoon, Shenoda and myself read from the slain and widely celebrated Ghanaian poet's posthumously released collection The Promise of Hope. Awoonor submitted the manuscript before being murdered during the Kenyan Westgate mall terrorist attack. One last gift in more ways than one. He had put the volume of new and selected poems forward, at the request the APBF editorial board, as a way to lend his support to the efforts of the fund which aims to publish one established poet each year as part of its various publications that form the African Poetry Book Series. A holding open of that great door into that often small room. A reminder, for me at least, that poets like Osman, Tsitsi Jaji, Clifton Gachagua and the London young poet Laureate Warsan Shire and many others are part of a long and honorable tradition of African poetics. 

Basically, yes, we are still here.

St Louis Export Top 40 Under 40 unveiled

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Lazy entry day. The below is a press statement regarding the Top 40 under 40 project and finale where the top 40 were awarded certificates and pins. On a personal note I'm honored to be listed amongst such fine company, a full list is at the bottom of this page. Batswana have a saying, "Ke ikutlwa ke le motlotlo" i.e. "I feel exalted". There you have it.

_

GABORONE – Monday 31st March 2014 saw the highly anticipated culmination of the St Louis Export Top 40 Under 40 2013 season, a project which commenced in January 2013.

The Final 40, whittled down from up to 120 nominees, were announced before guests, receiving their official pins and certificates as a testament to their contribution as catalysts of change within their industries and their communities. Three of the finalists went on to receive the Judge’s Award, an honour bestowed upon them for having made the most outstanding contribution in their respective fields. Game ‘Zeus’ Bantsi, Shanti Lo and Monametsi Kalayamotho received the prestigious award.

“Our catalysts have been nominated by members of the public for having evidenced positive change in their communities and inspiring other Batswana to be their best. Our nominees are what we believe a St Louis Export consumer to be: inspirational, driven, passionate, and any number of elusive qualities that make them a catalyst for change and for greatness. Above all, they are community builders,” said Marketing Director Mr Sesupo Wagamang.

The Top 40 Under 40 platform strives to earth Botswana’s catalysts and heroes in the making, recognising their talents and achievements in working towards shaping the next generation of catalysts of Botswana. Nominations were accepted from the public during the course of the campaign, with the decision on the Final 40 made by independent judges Mr. Chandra Chauhan, Mr. Victor Senye and Mr. Solomon Monyame.

The heavy rains did not put a damper on proceedings, as both guests and catalyst were eager to celebrate the achievers, with performances from catalysts Zeus, Samantha Mogwe, and TJ Dema.

Concluded Mr. Wagamang, “We are incredibly proud of all of the nominees; they stand as a true testament to the calibre of talent and ambition in Botswana. We thank each and every one of the catalysts, our esteemed judges, the public for their votes and their support, and of course our valued media partners at Mmegi, Yarona FM and Gabz FM for a fantastic and inspiring close to the 2013 Top 40 chapter.”


The St Louis Export Top 40 Under 40 finalists, in no particular ranking, are:


Abenico Matobo
Joel Mogorosi
Monametsi Kalayamotho
Adreattah Chuma
Kagiso Kwelagobe
Mpho Laing
Alister Walker
Kagiso Morebodi
Onica Lekuntwane
Amanda Chembezi
Kaone Kario
Percy Raditladi
Barns Maplanka
Khwezi Mphatlhalatsane
Phenyo Motlhagodi
Boitumelo Mbaakanyi
Lerato Motshwarakgole
Scar Thato Matlhabaphiri
Dirang Moloi
Lepang Ferguson
Shanti Lo
Dithapelo Medupe
Lesego Matlhware
Shike Olsen
Donald Molosi
Ludo Mokotedi
Siyanda Mohutsiwa
Emma Wareus
Majakathata Pheko
Thabiso Maretlwaneng
Gaone Mabutho
Meleko Mokgosi
TJ Dema
Groove Cartell
Mogogi Gabonamong
        Tumie Ramsden
Itumeleng Garebatshabe
Molefi Nkwete
        Uyapo Ndadi
       Zeus Game Bants


AEROPLANE PLAYLIST

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Because I'm based in Botswana its a given that, unless I travel intra-continentally, I'm spending at least 11 hours mid air enroute to wherever. This weekend is no exception and so I'm carrying a little home with me and heres what I'm thinking of packing ...

Khadja Nin - Sambolera mayi son

Oliver Mtukudzi - Neria

Johnny Clegg - Scatterlings of Africa

Ismael Lo - Tajabone

Youssou N'dour & Neneh Cherry - 7 seconds

Mariam Makeba - Pata pata

Salif Keita - Africa

Baaba Maal - Dunya Salam

Caiphus Semenya - Matswale

Culture Spears - Ke feta ke bolela

StAnza - Scotland's International Poetry Festival

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And if you should go back /to stand out there alone /salt soaked to the bone
 call me then: don’t speak,/just let my tongue taste salt/when I lick the phone.
                                                                                     - Harbour, Eleanor Livingstone



I am back where there is sun and sand, and then more of the same. I miss the sea, I dreamt of it last night and tipped into wakefulness with the memory of salt sitting on my tongue and the taste of laughter not too far behind.  Its exactly this kind of fanciful nonsense that led to me thinking I could wander the world talking, if not for a living, as a way of living. A couple of weeks ago I was in Scotland at the invitation of festival director Eleanor Livingstone to read for and speak to a hundred or so teenagers in Dundee, do a couple of BBC interviews as well as give a 40 minute reading as part of the festival's Saturday night double bill alongside UK Poet Laureate Carol Ann Duffy. How chuffed was I at that news? Some victory dances should forever remain between a girl and the books giving their back to her on a shelf that needs replacing.

Its quite difficult to separate, and why should you, the festival from its home or the people that live there because they come, they do for the readings and to sit and chat with poets who've come from near and far. My reading had the dangling carrot of the wonderfully talented and highly accessible Ms Duffy so by the time I got to Scotland it was almost sold out and by Saturday night a separate room with projection had been arranged to accommodate the spill over for our reading. A wonderful thought really, the idea of TOO many people wanting to listen to poetry. And f StAnza were a ship the support staff are its keel. I believe they are primarily if not exclusively local and they get your sound and lighting right and remember when you when you sneak in ten minutes before a reading looking for a complimentary ticket because 1) its a courtesy the festival extends to participating poets and 2) you left your name tag and wallet in your room (you hope).

St Andrews is small enough to fit my idea of being away without feeling like a million people are casting a shadow over my heart (large cities for all their peopledness can make it quite cumbersome for me to identify and find the people I want to keep company with). I've read lots of wonderful StAnza related blogs from all sorts of point of view and I wasn't really going to blog about the experience because I don't believe in retelling dodgily - because grammar, commas especially - what has been well told once, but because I never listen to anyone least of all myself here I am three paragraphs in.

Because I had my camera with me and it often proves to be a better storyteller, or at least a much more reliable narrator, than I I shall let it do most of the talking

X number of feet above Scotland's periphery  

If you are looking for high thread count sheets and a round of golf then the Fairmont St Andrews, who kindly sponsored my brief stay with them, are a good bet

I always miss the sun when I'm away from home then when I get back I complain its too bright and too hot so…clearly theres no pleasing some people

St Andrews is pretty much a 3 street town very imaginatively called wait for it ...South Street, North Street and Market Street. True story :-) but honestly I love not having to TomTom or Google my way anywhere especially after a late night out

Post a reading in a cavey little nook just off South Street. I love empty churches and this space felt a bit like that. I love that the festival makes use of spaces outside the theatre to take poetry to the people - cafes, the town council etc

This poor gentleman, who was literally carving words into stone just outside the theatre, had to stop what he was he was doing because I was asking a ton of questions about his stone and his hands and time and the cold weather 

On my way to the beach I met history he was old and crumbly but you could tell from his bones that he must have been a handsome lad in his day...still is in many ways


The Byre Theatre which is a magnificent space which I hope finds some perpetual endowment that'll keep it open more often that it is now. Amazing staff who came back to oversee the technical bits of the festival, despite having been out of a/their former job/s since the Byre stopped opening daily

Spent some time with Tishani Doshi (to my right), Rob Mackenzie(to her right), Tomica Basjic (to my left), Suzanne Steele and Gabeba Baderoon at the Byre. This photo courtesy of Suzanne Steele's camera :-)


BICYCLES & SMOeRREBOeRD

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So I'm in Denmark. Its lovely it really is but I do want to discuss the definition of spring with Europe because no maan! as far as I'm concerned its clearly still winter.

How to get here
As a DIVA, don't read anything into that it actually stands for Danish International Visiting Artist, I'm in Copenhagen for two months doing literary stuff courtesy of the Danish Arts Council and also refusing to eat rye bread because bread. I'm here and in the meantime rumors abound back home that the government may be dismantling the Department of Arts and Culture. We have no arts council, but thats a story for another day. I'm in DK meeting with writers' groups, visiting a refugee centre over three weeks to wordshop through what I suspect will blur the line between literature for literature's sake and life skills through film and words, I'm also mid spending two weeks with mostly under 12 year olds which can be nerve wracking but fun. We are working through some writing exercises with them and linking their writing with music originally composed for the project by J Spliff while tying their words in with the themed street art (graffiti on 11 tunnels) - yes the municipality is aware of the project otherwise I wouldn't be blogging about it.
Today I had 5 girls very subtly interrogate me, 'We don't want to write today we want to talk'. 'Ok, what about?''Where are you from?' asks the Eritrean girl. 'Do you have a boyfriend?' asks the Serbian troublemaker with an innocent smile. 'I'm in the handball team, do you also play sports,' says the Somalian-Togolese eyes bright, waiting for me to step into the minefield that is a mental posse of pre-pubescent girls. Sometimes the questions ask something else, 'do you also play sports' might mean 'are we alike in some small way?'
The Tunnel Visions project is work but its mainly on the kids terms, its after school, they come when they can, we sit in a colorful caravan in what is Denmark's low income area and invite them into a world of art and words and music. I still don't know if Denmark has the happiest people in the world but in what is admittedly not the favellas but is here seen as the ghetto Mothers who I suspect can little afford to coddle generosity send their sons back at the end of a day's work to give us cookies. After school programs and youth centers give us a place to sit and talk or plan our day and Peter Campbell Bensted leads a team of committed writers (Brandon -USA and Nicolas-DK are amazing artists) who partly because they are so talented know (how) to leave room for the kids in their process. What they could finish in a day they allow to happen over time so the children can find themselves in the work, literally see their effort and by extension themselves occupying space. Loudly and legally. We all agree this is about the children first. And last. Anything in-between, including weather preferences, is up for negotiation.

I have a couple of obligations that I'm looking forward to honoring in Germany towards the end of May and a by-then well earned holiday (with a little bit of work thrown in) coming up in June but for now here are a few Danish moments

First day involved voluntarily helping my host's daughter, a local photography student, take shots for her assignment on the beach

There is a fair amount of graffiti in Copenhagen. Some as old as 30 years 
Brandon and Peter with some of the kids

Part of the Freedom tunnel

Lots of updates over the coming weeks. For now, be good.

CENTURIAE

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"My name is Quintus Dias. I am a soldier of Rome, and this is neither the beginning, nor the end of my story." - Centurion. 
My name's not half as cool but this is definitely neither the beginning nor the end of my Danish story, only the bits in between. 

In Setswana we say go tsamaya ke go bona which literally translates to to travel is to see. I always wanted to change that last word to sea, to make a verb of all that vastness but alas. Despite growing up wanting to one day see "overseas" the local word for far away, the furthest most imaginable point away from everything known a la John Cheever and his "I've been homesick for countries I've never been, and longed to be where I couldn't be" I didn't really travel till I was in my twenties.  I've always loved the idea of being elsewhere and encountering alien forms of life but beyond the standard fear of the unknown my worry was I'd miss home. Home for me being people, not so much buildings or land (I acknowledge I have the privilege to make such distinctions) but I've learnt to build tribes everywhere - small, colorful, mostly multi-lingual-sometimes-not pockets of strangers, so problem solved.

I'm still in Denmark and today someone read out an excerpt of Antonio Machado's traveler/wanderer poem ...Traveller, the road is only /your footprint, and no more;/traveller, there’s no road,/the road is your traveling.
Going becomes the road/and if you look back/you will see a path /none can tread again.

He says, Machado, he does, that our task is to go
Outside the Queen's palace a Danish beefeater? Not unlike the English foot guards the Royal Life Guards  Den Kongelige Livgarde wear lovely fluffy hats :-D


International Trade Opportunity: If only Botswana could export her sun here, in exchange for a little water...


Copenhagen at sunset


Workshop in Roskilde. Today was Danish poet Asta Olivia's turn to facilitate. I was lead last week which meant I go off exploring for part of this session

I have an open window policy. If I should fall upon an open window I have to see what the window sees
 Someone told me this Danish sign says 'fear' not (English) angst but language will always come back to itself. The word angst comes from the German for fear/anxiety.

“Wanderlust, the very strong or irresistible impulse to travel, is adopted untouched from the German, presumably because it couldn’t be improved upon. " Elizabeth Eaves
'Travel is like adultery: one is always being tempted to be unfaithful to one's own country' 
-Anatole Broyard 

A moment happening / camera obscuring itself. I don't speak Danish and sometimes in company it feels a little like this. Colour can be enough. And sometimes sound is an end in itself although I know we like to think we moved beyond grunts a long time ago


AN ABSOLUTE TRUTH

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A friend asked me recently, 'chapbook?''Yes''Well whats that then?'

chapbook |ˈCHapˌbo͝ok|
noun historicala small pamphlet containing tales, ballads, or tracts, sold by peddlers.• a small paperback booklet, typically containing poems or fiction.ORIGIN early 19th cent.: from chapman (a peddler) + book.
But the real reason we were talking about chapbooks is because I have one out. Out of sheer laziness I've lifted a few words on the project from the Prairie Schooner newsletter.
"In association with Slapering Hol Press, the Poetry Foundation, and the African Poetry Book Fund, Prairie Schooner has published a collection of chapbooks entitled Seven New Generation African Poets. The collection was edited by Chris Abani, Professor of English at Northwestern and author of The Secret History of Las Vegas (Penguin, 2014) and Sanctificum(Copper Canyon, 2010), and Prairie Schooner's Glenna Luschei Editor Kwame Dawes. It contains chapbooks by 

TJ Dema (Botswana), Clifton Gachagua (Kenya), Tsitsi Jaji (Zimbabwe), Nick Makoha (Uganda),Ladan Osman (Somalia),Warsan Shire (Somalia), and Len Verwey (Mozambique).
In their eloquent two-part introduction, Dawes and Abani lay out the main goals and challenges of this chapbook box set. Dawes writes:

But for all the ins and outs of putting this box set together, for all the fundraising, the partnerships forged, and the extensive negotiations concerning the project, ultimately this box set exists because of the talent and urgency of these poems." 
Now I'm not biased you see, just involved. And you could if you wanted and if you really liked poetry and wanted to get your hands on  6 scrumptious - plus me - poets, well you could simply order/buy it here :-) and thats the truth my friend.

LOCAL HISTORY OF EARTHQUAKES/EARTH TREMORS - what they don't teach you in standard 4

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Facebook note import - May 9, 2014 at 10:43am
So I woke up (in Copenhagen) this morning to news that people back home had risen to rousing feelings of 'the earth moving''what sounded like a loud truck''a little something'…Batswana have quite  a natural turn of phrase. It turns out people at least as far out as Mmopane and Mahalapye and definitely the capital city had felt…something move beneath their feet. So I thought I'd do a little recap of past happenings that are on record somewhere…I'm no seismologist I'm afraid you'll have to dig around elsewhere for more meat on the bones. It sounds like it was an earth tremor, we are much more Facebook/cyber aware now and that means we communicate a bit more often, quickly and widely about happenings which is probably why this feels like a first.

The stats sourced from Map data ©2014 AfriGIS (Pty) Ltd, Google Imagery ©2014 NASA, TerraMetrics/earthquake.com -I'm assuming these are on the Richter scale:

 I took this pic in Maun which keeps popping up on this list of hotspots 
5 years ago 4.0 magnitude, 10 km depth
Maun, North-West, Botswana

8 years ago 3.8 magnitude, 13 km depth
Maun, North-West, Botswana

12 years ago 4.5 magnitude, 10 km depth
Mahalapye, Central, Botswana

19 years ago 3.9 magnitude, 10 km depth Molepolole, Kweneng


21 years ago 3.8 magnitude, 33 km depth
Mahalapye, Central, Botswana

24 years ago 3.3 magnitude, 10 km depth
Ramotswa, South-East, Botswana

Who the Charles! is Richter and where the pumpkin patch does he fall between a centimeter and a kilogram?

Any excuse to learn something new, BBC says 'There are thousands of earthquakes across the Earth each day. Most are too small to be detected without monitoring equipment, but some are powerful enough to destroy a city.'
Sounds like so far no damage has been reported, thank whatever gods lay claim to your soul but when is an earthquake an earthquake? Beyond the shaking of the ground, I don't know but wikipedia probably does - seismological agencies haven't yet registered todays and someone posited it might be mining induced/related so…you tell me

UPDATE: It turns out it was 3.0 on the Richter scale, there was no damage reported and as the closest mine is 250km away unlikely it was that but some still posit that fracking might have something to do with it.

SHE SAYS HELLO YOU FOOL

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I was in Sweden last week reading at the Teater Brunnsgatan Fyra. My second time in Stockholm, and again only for one night. I had to be back in Denmark for a reading at a festival the next day and couldn't stay to do the city justice so I basically got off the plane, bought junk food (delayed flight equals excuse to eat indiscriminately), met my ride which the Botswana Embassy in Stockholm so kindly provided, checked into the hotel, slipped out for a couple of hours to walk about, swung back for a quick shower, picked up copies of my chapbook, got on stage, and then armed with both new and old friends as well as my trusty back pack and camera found the Artist's bar and met Stockholm by night. Give or take stops during which we tried to sweet talk restaurant staff into feeding us after the kitchens closed, we walked until the wee hours of the morning. All very civilized I assure you.

Stockholm being equal parts water, parkland and urban space is about right, I think I read that on a brochure somewhere. The truth is it was time I got to know this country a little bit more than anything Roxette and Abba might have unwittingly passed on in my childhood.





A peeing booth. Men only. Right next to busy thoroughfare. 

So me and rye bread we are not friends but the Swedes had better luck than the Danes getting me to eat some

At the theatre

This I think must be what I look like at 1am at least through the eyes of the illustrator who inked this

We were not alone
Definitely a few people out on joyrides though I kept hearing country music as opposed to …something else?

Off to bed




BOYS FALLING OUT OF THE SKY

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How was your meal?
Great thank you. Its not a lie, they do a mean tagliatelle with poached salmon here. Here being Cafe Central in Cologne
Good. She stops. Excuse me are you the girl on the poster?
I smile both at the use of the word girl andthe idea of being recognized from a poster. I say yes and quickly turn away, not to dismiss but because I've never known how to take a compliment and sometimes you don't have to be Cal Lightman to smell kindness coming. She sneaks one in anyway and I mumble something vaguely appropriate.

Auden says in his Museum of fine arts that -

"In Breughel’s Icarus, for instance: how everything turns away
Quite leisurely from the disaster; the ploughman may
Have heard the splash, the forsaken cry,
But for him it was not an important failure; the sun shone
As it had to on the white legs disappearing into the green
Water; and the expensive delicate ship that must have seen
Something amazing, a boy falling out of the sky,
had somewhere to get to and sailed calmly on.”


And around me the important business of speaking goes on, as it should, a falling plate finds success in time for me to respond to Ben Okri who stops by to say hi. Chirikure Chirikure is on my right discussing the just ended Zimbabwean HIFA festival for which he curates the poetry/spoken word program, South African publisher Vonani Bila expounds on the circumstance of having dreadlocks when taking your passport photo and then facing immigration officials without said dreadlocks, a moderator is chatting with Austrian based Congolese poet Fiston Mwanza Mujila, Indra Russouw is speaking on Oliver Jordan's work (she's just been to lunch near his exhibition) and I joke about how un-abstract his portrait of Pablo Picasso is… behind us still more poets and moderators arriving.

Last night having been to a screening of Peter Kruger's 'N The reason of madness' together a bunch of us sat up talking, having forgotten to eat all day I ordered lamb shank half an hour before midnight and am asked to expound on its merit we agree hunger is a better chef than judge, beds eventually necessitated by the tyranny of human design.

We shan't be getting lost at this festival one poet says, our rooms are above the bar so we'll be fine. Laughter finds us on our feet.

There is a reason to this madness (hours of flight time, loved ones left behind, upended working hours) we are of course here to share words and experiences and to meet each other miles away from the borders which name us neighbors. We do work, for example on this very afternoon Nii Ayikwei Parkes is at one of the high schools running a workshop, there'll be a few more by various poets and readings and panels each evening and at the opening tonight the poets will be accompanied by German jazz drummer Baby Sommer.

Out of the corner of my eye - German words masquerading as a street sign say one way street, a boy who is that if I'm a girl, walks towards us and behind him is the same sky I left in Copenhagen, falling upwards into its familiar blue and white.

LENTSWE

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Lentswe (lints'wi as in will) is the Setswana word for voice, read differently (lints-wear) it means stone. Where was I when people were studying phonetics (though the same could be said of punctuation class)? I don't know why language works the way it does, why stone and voice might find themselves sharing space in a world of endless - are they infinite?- possible combinations of alphabets but there are men and women whose voices may as well be stones for how well they poleax with this, our first instrument. And even then with some its the very sound, with others its the pitch and inflections, accents, clarity (I'm preoccupied with hearing clearly and easily when someone speaks if their intention is communication) and at best it is all this and more.


I went the other day to a multi-media reading and was distracted by the imagery and music of it all so I instinctively closed my eyes to listen. I also do this when people whisper/don't project adequately across a room but to leave the illusion of politeness intact I only squint and compensate by leaning in. I trust my ear to read people and situations well, of course all my other senses complement this - hair standing on back of neck, eyes seeing a micro expression beneath some thin veneer etc theres no magic to this children are brilliant at it but my ears are quite experienced I presume they helped immeasurably when as a child I had to acquire languages. They are also a great editing tool, I read everything out loud before I abandon it to its fate to check for musicality and grammar and consistency of the narrator's textual voice, to see if I'm putting on airs - accent often shifts to try and accommodate this other voice - and I can better manage text this way.

But having said that I also leave the room if I have to hear my own voice on a recording. Obviously you were not meant to hear yourself outside of yourself because its quite disconcerting for me to listen to playback of my own voice, misplaced inflections, unheard of things happening with pronunciation; chalkboard-cringe. Anyway I love that word lentswe and today I'm doing a quickie list of some of favorite film voices. I'm quite fickle hearted and so this list grows and morphs with each wardrobe change.


Peter Cullen is amazing. I loved Transformers as a child and was ever so happy (story lines up for debate) when they brought him back as a voice in the movies, Optimus Prime and Iron Hide are hands down my absolute favorite voices in the series.

Sir David Attenborough's voice is inalienable from my childhood Sundays, also I loved dinosaurs and wild animals, and its as calming to me as a lullaby to hear its familiarity across time and borders. The sound of someone who loves something, sometimes people call it passion if they can also see it in your face.

James Earl Jones. I say Mufasa and raise you Darth Vader and you say what?

Lennie James, I didn't really pay attention until Colombiana and then walla!, not unlike hearing Kevin Spacey in House of Cards … bear with me here, its a bit like listening to a (good) Bollywood OST I love that stuff partly because no one in my immediate environment has that particular musical lilt to their speech

Tom Hiddlestone is growing on me but we'll give him a few decades to shake hands with his tribesmen - Jeremy Irons (the man who killed Mufasa) or Cumberbatch et al before we commit entirely ;-). He did do a wonderful Darwin voice over for the Galapagos documentary I caught on Danish television recently.

Denzel Washington, calmly deliberate half rasp anyone? Also that laugh.

Tom Wilkinson and Sir Anthony Hopkins are good ones for a speech and I do so want to give Sean "Jamesh" Connery a list of words beginning with S to see what happens.

Paul Robeson - I'm cheating here because I've never really heard him speak at length but I watched the 1936 movie Showboat (TNT + father who is 4 decades older) and never forgot his Ol' Man River so  its-my-list-I-can-fudge-it if I want to.

Henry Cele as Shaka Zulu mainly for sentimental reasons, I still remember that other cat trying to feed Shaka some philosophical reasoning and Shaka is on some blood! If you decide to watch the videos online do library/google the historical facts afterward just to gain some context.

mors veniet unicuique nostrum

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"He comes for us all, our old friend death. He is fed in with the first breast milk. He is a suitor most loyal to his cause, keeps his promise eternally."TJ Dema at 530am before a cup of coffee while waiting for a flight (no, that is not the title of an attempted-poem its the state of the poet so pardon what you will).

At best faith offers that you will transition to a better place, perhaps that you will return as something or someone else, and if the Greek philosophers are proven wise you may find yourself in the Elysian Fields, for those who wish war upon themselves even after death Odin's Valhalla may be the best option for even witch doctors say you may be returned after you die but die you must, and the lawyers fond of finding ways out say their silver tongues are tied that taxes as a consequence of living are as inevitable as death thereby admitting that death is death, even that most flamboyant of writers, Wilde, gives Dorian a way out of his deal with the devil. On this we all agree, the exit clause is non-negotiable: it matters not how laden or hungered the path, how we tinker with the in-between for as we have come and so we must leave.

In Botswana mourning is an extravagant ritual, and it begins at the point of bereavement and plateaus for at least a year after the fact.


The stars are not wanted now: put out every one;
Pack up the moon and dismantle the sun;
Pour away the ocean and sweep up the wood.
For nothing now can ever come to any good.

W.H Auden


PRAYERS & VIGIL
So now you are dead and what kept you, having left dictates that flesh must go the way of all things. The earth from whom your clay was stolen demands it be returned to her. Some say you walk all your days toward your death. That you wake one morning suddenly eager to travel only to never return. That when the time comes clay recognizes clay.
But here we keep you frozen, for a week at least, even if death will not wait his party must. It will not be held until the weekend, though on a morning. Some bury immediately or soon after, a small percentage cremate, and even though the clear majority of Batswana identify as christian, tradition holds strong for certain ceremonies. Here christianity moulds itself around the local practices, the pastor will attend the wake at the home of the deceased, prayers will be held and on the last night a vigil kept.

Money is spent on flour, and time on making bread and tea. If like me, you crave quiet when your heart hurts you will not find it then. They will come in their hoards, with their well meaning hands and sing for you. It is a wonderful example of communal function that others will walk towards rather than away from you when you have fallen at some slippery place.

BURIAL
I'm told that not all cultures dictate staying at the gravesite for the entire throwing of sand on the coffin until its covered. In Botswana we stay. We sing Setswana funeral hymns and sometimes regular gospel songs. I don't think anyone cares whether you were christian they sing their idea of comfort and what they wish your departed spirit.

"Funerals used to be conducted shortly after death but now the use of mortuaries has enabled funerals to be postponed. Thus, the expectations in terms of attendance, quality of coffin, and level of hospitality have escalated, and many more people can be notified and material resources assembled. Funerals have become one of the main venues for the expression of cultural, time, and resource commitment, both on the part of the aggrieved family and those attending, who are expected to work at the funeral and who expect to be fed."Everyculture.com

Although some Batswana worked in the South African mines or went elsewhere for work or school, up until 1966 the majority of citizens lived in or very near where they were born. Informing relatives of  death was probably as simple as wailing from the courtyard of your mud hut. Now we are scattered around the world, a large number of students study abroad, even locally the main university is in the city which is no one's 'home village' and even more students go there to study and never leave the city as the major jobs are in the city. If like me your home village is 9 hours away it takes time to apply for leave and gather sufficient resources to travel for the burial. And you cannot just turn up empty handed on the weekend, you must take time off (depending on how close a relative the deceased is) to help with meals for the daily evening prayers.

I've heard that some people (possibly only men) are buried in the cattle kraal. Children/small babies are sometimes buried under the family home. One tribe very close to the city buries their dead in the corner of the compound they live in. Some aggrieved families break open the bedroom floor to bury the husband there.

MOURNING AS A VERB
"When I first came here I was a bit surprised at how unemotional Batswana are at funerals, but now I realise it is not a lack of emotion, it's just the way here. My husband hates to see people emotional at funerals, he ridcules them even and believes they make the entire thing more difficult for everyone else. Last weekend we were at a relative's funeral. The oldest son was moving around laughing and joking with people, even at the gravesite, but I know him very well and know he was very close to his mother who we were burying. Maybe it was maleness, maybe it was Setswana-ness (actually Kalanga-ness) but it was odd, and for me and even more heartbreaking." Motswana born and raised elsewhere.

Batswana are quite stoic at funerals, pragmatic even. Is there enough bread for the guests, who is keeping watch over the comfort (financial donation) book, have the children been bathed, are the funeral programs ready, have the uncles arrived etc. This is not universal, in Zambia I'm told there are mourners who weep, nay wail inconsolably,  throwing themselves on the floor and rolling around. This is their way.

WILLS
Having just said how practical we all are I asked a successful local lawyer whether Batswana have a culture of writing wills. She capitalized her adamant "no" with multiple exclamations for effect. It gets messy, you read about it all the time; uncles taking property from the children, wives loosing homes or land to in-laws, the quality of life for the bereaved family can often alter for the worst, shockingly fast, especially where the deceased is male and possibly the only breadwinner *what a strange word*.

TRIBE SPECIFIC RITUALS
I've been reliably informed that my last name in iKalanga (my tribal, not the national, language) means black. The proper word for the color black is tema for an object, ntema to describe a person, dema I'm told means a specific shade of black, one that is particularly opaque, dark; as one elder put it 'black that would be worn when in mourning'.

A widow wears black for up to a year: black headkerchief, dress, shoulder scarf all day, everyday. The bereaved children have their heads shaved off completely and a tiny little piece of black cloth pinned daily to their clothes.

There will be a ceremony to cut the (spiritual) cord that binds the living spouse (read wife) to her deceased. She cannot (must not) engage in sexual relations with another man until this time has passed and she has been ritually cleansed.

Windows at the deceased's home were covered in (open fire) ash.

Traditional doctors were often buried in the dead of night, in the very very early hours.

We used to bury people covered in cow hide, likely from the just slaughtered cow which would be had for the post burial lunch, in place of coffins.


NEO-PSEUDOTRIBE SPECIFIC RITUALS/CHANGES
The capital was created in 1965/66 in time for independence, before then we did not have  a city within our borders. Long story. So the city has developed structurally on the basis of some sort of plan while culturally it is a volatile melting pot. Folks come from every nook and cranny, every town and village to make a life in the city. They bring with them the sum total of their experiences, expectations and values and norms and all this cooks under the Botswana sun to produce all sorts of individuals and sub-cultures that tend to share a few markers - little time for traditional niceties, preoccupation with money and status and employment and when this meets the fairly national cultural expectations you get some exciting happenings.

We now bury in coffins although some folks with lots of cattle still cover the coffin with fresh cow hide.

In the city some young people have what they call an after-tears. This is a party, often with lots of alcohol so I'm told to send off the departed. I think they young do it only of those who die young. What is young perhaps you are as young as you feel and therefore act, a 45 year old who lived for clubbing will likely get a send off such as this.

I've heard of some people pouring liquor over the grave only once which since I'm not grapevine central suggests that this happens. This, I think, is borrowed from certain American music videos mainly produced in the 90s.

People are buying burial plots in advance in other parts of the world I don't know whether this is possible in Botswana.

Small groups of people dress up in short dresses and stilettos as opposed to long skirts and flat shoes to be able to run around offering assistance.

Funerals are sometimes being catered instead of relatives and friends staying up all night to cook for hundreds of people. They young have money and "no" time, out sourcing is king.

Women spend tens of thousands on their hair in the city I'm not sure there will be much shaving of hair allowed by my generation.

Children are now often allowed to stay in the home of the deceased, before they were sent off to be with relatives until after the funeral. Now too they may see the face of the deceased if the coffin is left open during the early morning 'viewing of the deceased'. I have looked upon a corpse only once and felt something not there anymore, I would not wish it upon a child but we seek closure in different ways perhaps...

What I know we won't allow for sure, for the most part, is seantlo (it translates to the thing that goes to a house) which is when a woman dies and her widow takes her sibling as a replacement wife. I think only a few tribes ever practiced this. Perhaps the idea was that an aunt would best take care of her sister's children? That the Snow-White-step-mum scenario could be avoided. I haven't a clue but if this is the song thats playing I'm afraid sir that I'm not available to dance.

A fellow writer points out to me, when she first moved here we used to cover the burial mound with stones and now we put steel frames with all sorts of ornamental designs on them. It is not required but it is often expected, Batswana respond splendidly to unspoken status challenges. "...when I first came here in 1989, the standard finishing off of a grave was to pile it with stones. And then there was the Financial Assistance Programme and everyone started welding and sewing businesses. The welders began making those little cages. They caught on. and then they added little roofs with shade cloth ceilings."

UNVEILING OF THE TOMBSTONE
Often a year after the burial family members return to place a tombstone and flowers over the now settled grave.

A LITTLE STORY
Once when I was still too young to see the dead I went to my home village (I was born and raised in the capital city) to visit with family and one day I overheard the elders talking. It was as they say  at the hour of the cow horn -so early one can only see the horns of the cows? your guess is as good as mine but it means a time earlier than dawn, they were going about the business of dressing for the funeral of a village elder.
"Take your umbrella."
"Oh yes it is bound to rain, the heavens will surely send this particular elder off the proper way."
Although it was so dark all you could see where cow horns :-) above the morning mist, for the purposes of relaying this story I will say there was at this point not a cloud in the sky. It didn't rain that day, it poured.


Caveat: Of course I'm generalizing, wrapping up 2 million people's choices and decisions and conditioning and cultures into a neat little blog entry. Each tribe has variations on the theme of sending-off and each family keeps and discards what it chooses, also there are things I simply do not know but I hope you now see a little into my worlds within the home of a country that is Botswana.

LESHIE LOVESONG presents BREATHE

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I've had a wonderful start to my birthday month. Do I believe in horoscopes? What! of course not. I should point out that if I did, Leshie is a fellow leo and says this was a birthday gift to herself. Who is Leshie Lovesong? Born Lesego Nswahu Nchunga she has been performing poetry since 2006, and became a member of ExodusLivePoetry! in 2007. She has since performed her work at the Maun International Poetry Festival, at the Intwasa Arts Festival in Bulawayo; in Johannesburg, South Africa; Luanda, Angola; and Rundu, Namibia.
I’ve been there playing occasional big sister while she grew into herself and so despite winter refusing to relinquish her rather cold hold on Gaborone's evenings I honoured a promise to attend Leshie’s solo showcase. Titled “Breathe” this second showcase followed “Falling” which she staged in March this year.

Leshie Lovesong was accompanied by Sibongile Phiri, Boleng as Atmos, Mandisa Mabuthoe as Josiah King, Tefo Paya as the Lonely Lover, Cedric on guitar, and Lex the Box Cutter.
She’s a tiny little thing, at best 5 feet and a bit tall but she has a really tall personality. Her job as a lawyer with an interest in Human Rights law entails occasionally encountering the less savoury side of perfectly everyday-human beings yet she retains an impossibly sunny outlook on life. Her soems(a somewhat quirky term sometimes used here to label songs that are poem-heavy) are infectiously fun and flirty and well crafted.

“Waiting to grow” was written for 3 friends who all should have been 26 years old this year but unfortunately lost their lives, somehow that undying thread of optimism and cheerfulness finds its way into even this song. “Awaken my dreams” has the most fun yet melancholy melody and I’m still humming it off key this many days later.

She doesn’t hesitate to disagree with me, to ask questions, to temporarily liberate poetry books from my private collection and give feedback which makes it easier to give her feedback on her own work. And she pays it forward, she had a sixteen year old singer-songwriter (who I now have my eye on) on stage with her for two or so songs. I love that the clear bulk of Leshie’s sets are original material, there is a lot of covering of covers in this town. Don’t tell her but she’s one of my favourite little human beings and she and handful of her peers are the reason I’m working on a couple of projects geared towards growing poetry collections in local libraries. I took a couple of photographs during the show so the pictures could do the thousand word thing ...

She describes her sound as ‘jazzy blues poetic music’

Mandisa Mabuthoe as Josiah King

“I held the two shows mainly because I wanted to share my work with my audience, on a platform on which I could merge poetry and music and theatre, comfortably”.

Her first show sold out, this one ended with a chorus of "nos" from the audience, she tried to say goodbye and the audience talked over her farewell to demand more music.


She's still gathering feathers for her wings but she has a fair sense of the work that lies ahead so next time you are out looking for a love song look to Botswana and look up...



THE SLINGS AND ARROWS OF OUTRAGEOUS FORTUNE

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Richard Strauss writes to his librettist Hugo von Hofmannsthal, at the beginning of their long, successful collaboration: ‘There is only one thing I would ask you: when composing your text don’t think of the music at all – I’ll see to that.’ And Hofmannsthal replies: ‘Rest assured, my dear Dr Strauss, that over the whole text I shall rely upon myself alone and not at all on the music; this is indeed the only way in which we can and must collaborate.’James Fenton, an introduction to English poetry (Penguin 2002)

The French poet Marie–Claire Bancquart has worked on several collaborations with her husband a professor emeritus of composition at the National Conservatory of Music in Paris, “He generally puts my poetry to music, but one time I wrote a poem from his music…It isn’t the same thing as writing poems (that won’t be set to music.)…My husband said from the beginning that the music must not be only a descriptive accompaniment to the poem. There must therefore be a method of transferring from one technique into the other in such a way that the two works, whether poetic, musical, or pictorial, together create a third work”. –Christina Cook & Marie-Claire Bancquart, Writing about the concrete: Marie Claire Bancquart

Recently a client called me in and very excitedly asked me to collaborate with a fellow artist, an emerging instrumentalist whom they were very excited about and I declined. Gaborone which is the capital of Botswana is rather like a fishbowl there’s only one bridge to burn and so often people say yes when they should be saying no. I suffer from a different problem, I’m attached to my instincts. But this is a good problem to have, no? I don’t know what I was trying to say there except that for the last 5 years or so there has been an increase in the number of English language poets working with music here, for example a major festival is happening next week and of the 8 billed poets I’m the only one not planning to incorporate music. In some cases music has become a crutch in place of substantial text, for a few the collaboration feels successfully like an evenly matched effort between word and song, for others it is not a question of whether the music or text came first but whether either should have happened in the company of the other at all.

One of the most popular and longstanding shows on national radio is dipina le maboko (songs and poems). Batswana have always had a hard time separating the two, well perhaps not so much music as some kind of accompaniment. We have everything from ululators (always a female accompanying the poet and creating stanzas on the spot by literally repeatedly cutting off the poet wherever she sees fit, alternatively the poet cues her interruption) to traditional dancers often blowing a whistle to augment their footwork and once when I was young I saw a drummer accompany a poet. The kind of songs they play on dipina le maboko put me in mind of off key folksongs (is there such a thing?) but of course they are not that, they are what they are, texts spoken or half heartedly sung while some sort of home made violin or thumb piano or four string guitar is played. The text feels like poetry or should that be narrative. 

Assistant Professor of English also poet, Tsitsi Jaji ponders what one may learn about reading poetry on and off the page from musical composers' settings of poetry in arts songs."I wanted to share these insights with other scholars of texts but realized that musical manuscripts and scores are legible to me as a former professional musician in ways that might strike my literary colleagues as opaque and untranslatable. I thought that using performance as a way to translate the score might make Coleridge-Taylor’s musical commentary on Dunbar’s poetry accessible to a new sympathetic and sophisticated audience."

Why are we here? Oh yes collaboration. I’ve had a couple of poems read by actors or interpreted into dance, a few radio hits where spoken word was put over, of all things, club (house) music. I occasionally work with music and/or musicians writing to music for the concept band Sonic Slam Chorus, and reading to Baaba Maal’s band as well as Oliver Lake and his steel pan band which he put together specially for a Poetry Jazz 2012 show but all these musicians will tell you how honored, eager even, I was to work with them but hesitant to take on the music. Here’s the deal I’m not particularly musically gifted… lets not beat about the bush I couldn’t carry a tune in a bucket so whoever I collaborate with, always for me, has to be someone much, much more experienced than I am in whatever other medium. In the way I might trust a translator to carry over my meaning or sensibilities into a language I don’t speak, I work with some musicians. The bottomline is that the artistic integrity in a collaboration is in flux, the I in control is no longer singular, the singer drops the lyricist’s word or emphasis, the painter sees the novelist’s face one way, the translator makes I male because his tongue demands a gender… my partner is therefore then my crutch, which I may or may not need but I’m upfront about how flexible they need to be because when you hear me working with music it is always a reproduction, in much the way Fenton says that, “When an epitaph is a poem written for a tomb, and appears in a book, we are aware that we are not reading it in its proper form: we are reading a reproduction. The original of the epitaph is the tomb itself, with its words cut into stone.” In my case the original is the unaccompanied voice for page or stage. I never think in music.

I do think collaboration happens in different ways, that because English is my third language but my first literary tongue (I read and speak fastest in it and perhaps as a consequence of that read much, much more broadly in it, there is the issue of publishing in local languages but we’ll save that for another day) I find that my many tongues must collaborate to create for me whatever passes for the final English in my writing. Senior lecturer at the University of Botswana, Barolong Seboni in his introduction to ‘Setswana riddles translated into English’ says “Those of us who have chosen English as our medium of expression find ourselves having to explain that “yes, the language is English but the idiom, the meaning, is Tswana”. For this to be possible our English should not be mistaken with the language of those who live across the seas the “eaters of fish”, as our ancestors referred to them.”

This is my current collaboration; a kind of communion with the self, who else? I’m wading through various texts that engage with Setswana oral literature ‘for fun’ but also because more and more when I ask my contemporaries “why do we say this or what does this mean” the answer is invariably “I don’t know.” Perhaps not an entirely unique or scary response but when you factor in that we are now our parents, raising tomorrow’s Batswana it’s a less than tenable state of affairs so I’m collaborating with my Setswananess to better speak my English. By the time I started going to school there were teachers who beat students for speaking Setswana, “English, English!” they thought English the currency to best all others, that if we had this tongue we would not need any other to carve a space for ourselves in the world. By the time we began to redress this wrong the city was a city growing into its cosmopolitanism and English was “cool”, our grandparents were far off in the villages and the little holiday time we spent with them failed to nurture a love for practicing Setswana, all year long the lessons were/are in English except for the hour spent on either Setswana or French language class. These are the cards dealt but what is now nobler to suffer teeth on tongue or take arms against a sea of this trouble of our own making? Every man has a dog in this fight.

Achebe says, "Let no man be fooled by the fact that we may write in English, for we intend to do unheard of things with it".


When this entry began I had a thought but it’s gone the way of crayons in a room full of four year olds, collaboration perhaps, but I’ve no idea to which specific end.

HOW TO NOT NOT WRITE A POEM: notes for self for a future poem during a severe bout of writer's block

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Begin somewhere, in fact anywhere is a better place. Do not say to yourself what is a poem. 

(to be read by someone not older than forty but not younger than four)

Someone's called a meeting, they have
(channel the griots:if Okpewho is to be relied upon :-) then this is to be read much in the way of an elderly Bamba Suso i.e. quietly without histrionics)
was I was too busy hearing everything to know
to really know a this (what?) thing

(consider lineation- small letters to open each line, no?)
Was I asleep when the messenger came
what tongue did he use, did they say?
did he wear his cow hide garment
whip his whisk of a tail
did he say my name, did he?

(think about form? structure versus free verse)
tell him to tag me, I've no door to knock on
someone say you and mean me
its the only tongue i have left
i have given back every borrowed other  (don't try to be clever to the point of undoing the poem, let it talk, listen) 
anything on loan has been returned, willingly
and now how to talk

(sneak in fresh metaphor. literal translation perhaps/riddle-proverb untranslatability…)
but I've forgotten how to do that thing
to swap a G for that soft H, the way grandma did
or how to say any thing in more than forty characters

(what is the poem trying to say? who is the speaker: ask yourself all those critical thinking/common sense 101 questions)
when i was young, it was the   knights thieves? who...
and 1001 nights, imagine
how much of a story you could tell in
in that much time

time. time tj? (ok now what to do with it. Half way through pray if you must, sample prayer follows: Dear Apollo and all that is itan, where in the world are the words? Amen or substitute as per faith or lack thereof)

I was too busy plugged in  (blinders? hard work to make it cohere but could work)
thats the thing to (reference horses here. relevant? avoid trying to show all your hands at once perhaps for another poem)

the unicorns are throwing off their chains
if freedom is dangerous (prose or poetry - quote from somewhere? consider how this resonates beyond 'I am, I love, I need' Baraka said you must have some understanding of the world beyond self, is this happening here)

and on every mountain (Where is this meeting happening? if on say a mountain avoid cliches  i.e. name, adjectives all that jazz, keep it fresh and explore making friends of your nouns and adjectives, unusual pairings of what may appear to be strange bedfellows, as per my coffee break with KM this week - are your mountains shivering or are they just there? how do you feel about this? )

every buffalo soldier (how and who now? oh yes there was a meeting called at the beginning perhaps you might want to circle back to the initial impetus for writing the poem or to, as Taylor Mali says, 'the nugget of truth' this could help stop you form attempting to fit the whole world in this one poem instead of snap-shot'ing)

note to self: I'm afraid writing is itself an occupational hazard, rest between nose bleeds, sleep on it, switch off editor in head, try to have fun, abandon then safely stow notes if like me -above- you cannot /yet/ salvage the narrative or the music of the poem, listen to the advice above the way I haven't, if it suits you, and find that other book by… also when poetry starts feeling like a foreign language perhaps listen to the Spanish language translator Edith Grossman and get a day job, unless you absolutely "must" write poetry or are independently wealthy.

THE POEM AS A MOCKINGBIRD

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So cool tings a gwan in Pittsburgh. Who woulda thought but some things about this city make my heart stop then beat a little faster, take for example the Pittsburgh Creative and Performing Arts 6-12th grade (CAPA) magnate school which offers students 6 arts majors: literary arts, visual arts, theatre, instrumental music, vocal music and dance. Admission is by portfolio or audition and if the kids grasp of craft is anything to go by the teachers are fantastic and the facilities are … lets just say my parents paid real good money for me to go to high school and that campus looked nothing, nothing like this. 
One of the workshop sessions with the 9-11th graders

Julia and Pittsburgh-TJ, yes there are more of us out here, took me on a tour and may I officially wish I'd had a theatre stage to crew on like that or studio to dance in or a gallery to exhibit in etc when I was in my teens. Anyway I'm here now in a roundabout way and I thought I'd share a few photographs of this city and its amazing folks - strangers say hi, the boys flirt like gentlemen, individuals support literary asylum programs with their hard earned cash, some parents turn up for their children's poetry reading and short of learning how to pound corn and make pap these folks couldn't have made me feel more welcome.

This is my second time at the City of Asylum (CoA). I'm currently, knock on wood, in the fortunate position of not being an asylum seeker but unfortunately theres always some cat tryna shoot a mockingbird. I'm merely a friend of the program and a strong supporter of the work this initiative does in providing housing and a community - for as long as is required - for persecuted writers from all over the world, hosting a reading series, running a visiting international writers residency, liaising with my other adopted US home (Iowa City) by taking on one or two of the international writers participating in the IWP every year  and extending their foray into America beyond the mid west, although the IWP does a good job of that anyway.

A couple of weeks ago I had a grand ol' time with Oliver Lake and his big band. Nothing like 17 very talented instrumentalists bending it like Beckham round your words to make you forget that you don't "do" music :-) very well.

I swung by UPenn to visit Tsitsi Jaji and Bob Perelman's poetry and sound undegrad class and read at the Kelly Writers house alongside the inimitable Gabeba Baderoon. A quick stop over with not much time to do more than check out independence hall, attend a DIVAs jazz night and sit in on a few sessions of the just ended Humanities and Arts Integrated Knowledge University (HAIKU) seminar. I'm guilty of playing the dilettante every time literary translation is brought up but its an area that really does fascinate me, at the very least its implications for 'translation' within the same language say standard British/American English to all the global versions out there. I'd have to broaden my thinking then narrow it down to something, but first I have to listen so I turned up and I did and well… we'll see what comes of this curiosity. 

All in all good trip. My kids, many of whom had never done a public reading, were fantastic on stage tonight.

Three cheers for Pittsburgh, and a couple of serious extra what-whats! for CoA. A few photos to tell the tale truer that I can.


My kids, many of whom had never done a public reading, were fantastic on stage tonight.

View from one of the dance studios
Some of the homes, one used as an office, owned by CoA in Pittsburgh


THIS IS WHY WE’RE HOT …OR NOT: Botswana's 2014 elections

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THIS IS WHY WE’RE HOT

Ok no not really we are hot because we are 70% desert and its basically degrees of summer here for eight months of the year. However on October 24th, just two years before Botswana celebrates her fiftieth year of independence from Britain, we held our parliamentary elections and lived to tell the tale. Though they were the most volatile and interesting, we the people behaved impeccably.

Do we have problems? What country doesn’t? For a few opinions/research papers/books on what those problems and their causes may be I will direct you to

-       press freedom

but this is not what this entry is about, rather I wanted to non-partisanly J celebrate what was declared by the African Union observers’ mission as a “free and fair election.” One step at a time.

The parties that contested were the:
  • ·      Botswana Democratic Party (BDP)
  • ·      Umbrella for Democratic Change (UDC)
  • ·      Botswana Congress Party (BCP)
  • ·      Various independent candidates (referred to by the people as mokoko (Setswana word meaning cock - think chicken, I don't know why)

TIMELINE
The voting date was announced by the president months in advance and employers encouraged to release registered voters to vote.

Voting was held on Friday 24thOctober (declared a public holiday) followed by the rather painful process of trying to stay awake to catch your candidate’s constitutional result as well as other areas of interest.
The results were announced through the night into the day for 48 hours with the last constituency result read late afternoon on Sunday.


2014 CAMPAIGNS
American celebrities endorsed UDC 

Reports of funding from international organsiations or individuals. In Botswana there is no law requiring parties to declare who their generous friends are.

Both of the opposition parties hired helicopters and spent I suspect more money than ever before on rallies (event management), party paraphernalia etc

After the death of Gomolemo Motswaledi of the UDC in July 2014, by car accident, the party gained momentum and political leverage. Social media was rife with accusations of who might be responsible for his demise and opposition members rallied around this incident as a common point of interest. The government commissioned an investigative report. Crying foul/supposedly fearing maladministration the UDC hired private forensic specialists but have since not released the report.
There are those who feel that the Gaborone Central vote was a sympathy vote in absentia for the much loved and deceased politician who was to stand for election in that area. That or that it served as a 'punishment' for BCP leader under whom the BCP 'choose not to join the UDC coalition' he has issued a statement disagreeing on how that disagreement came about. How one measures actual votes against this idea of sympathy and punishment voting I could not say.


FREE AND FAIR
This scale does not take into consideration whether parties are funded and therefore start on an even playing field.

From a layman's observations dn eavesdropping what follows is a summation of the situation/s on the ground:

  • ·      There is no state funding for political parties
  • ·      The ruling party has been in power since 1965 and is inevitably deeply entrenched within both governmental and corporate financial circles.
  • ·      There are concerns that public media functions on some level as state media, in the lead up to elections campaign coverage covered presidential town visits, he is also president of the BDP and there appears to the layman to be little separation between his party related campaigns and presidential national duties
  • ·      There are those who say funding parties would be too expensive a burden for the tax payer/government and those who say funding parties is an investment by the people in their current/potential governance system
  • ·      Concerns that state resources are used to support ruling party activities eg media report suggesting that an air plane was used to transport a candidate, with the response on record being that the president is at liberty to provide a lift to any one who he wishes to
  • ·      Voters queued patiently, did not wear any party emblems (as required, reports of one voter who was sent home to change), no violence on record

EARLY VOTING
Early voting happened in the week leading up to the main elections. It was open to Batswana in the diaspora as well as the elections’ staff.


SPOILT VOTES
I have no idea what the internationally or locally acceptable rate/ratio of spoilt votes is but while listening to reports I couldn’t help but feel that since we have 5 years between election years to teach voters what is (to me and my four year old nephew) a simple system, we and by that I mean the Independent Electoral Commission has to reassess our national voter education. Not just what we share but where (geographically and in terms of cyber real estate) and when.

NON-TURN OUTS
In one area we are told that about 2000 people who registered to vote did not turn up out of 18000 plus registered voters. Research into and how this happens would be interesting. Are they simply unavailable, lazy, or out of country or pregnant or ill on voting day? Is this simply a hazard of the voting job, seven went in and 5 came out?
Do they register just so they can show their voter registration cards on instagram and facebook but have no intention of voting from the onset.
Do they have insufficient information from candidates and cannot decide who to vote for?
Do they feel that the candidate’s language of choice excludes them from the conversation?
Candidates hop between parties does this make it difficult to know who stands for what and for how long?
Do they feel that the manual process leads to slow and long queues (voters begin trekking to some polling stations as early as 4am to await voting which begins at 630am)
Do they feel that the party that is going to win is a foregone conclusion and therefore their vote doesn’t count?
Do they understand the difference a handful of individuals votes can make eg some candidates lost by 10, 35/handful of votes etc
It could be any number of reasons and I’d be interested in what they are.

Independent Electoral Committee feedback
  • ·      Get a media and events/logistics specialist to plan your media resource centre
  • ·      Make a formal arrangement for an express lane for the elderly or medically challenged including heavily pregnant women and mothers of infants less than 3 months old
  • ·      Ensure your staff have loud speakers so they can make announcements to the whole queue in an effective manner
  • ·      Discuss your voting day logistics clearly with each polling station’s team eg where to place the voter registration card verification officer’s desk. Sometimes common sense is not so common, therefore approach briefs with an eye for detail.
  • ·      Ensure your staff arrive at least an hour before start time for set up
  • ·      If chairs are available (a number of polling stations are in schools) make access to those chairs easily available
  • ·      Harness social media much more effectively
  • ·      Shape your voter education much more effectively and specific to different groups and their capacity to understand
  • ·      Consider possibilities for having pre-voting age volunteers (they can put out chairs or whatever tasks they can be entrusted with) and use part of that time to teach them the value of voting as I presume you see it
  • Can elements of the process anywhere between registration and voting nd counting eb automated. In what ways can existing technologies be harnessed taking into consideration their user-friendliness in our local context, their accessibility (obviously it is not news to you that our internet access is appalling) etc but outside of these handicaps what can be done and by whom


COUNTING &OBSERVERS
AU Mission Observers were in 26 constituencies out of 57 total constituencies.

Batswana/anyone could be present for the vote counting which was undoubtedly transparent.

Since we have a first past the post system we knew by midnight when the BDP hit the 29 seat mark that they had won and would return as the national administration.
Joyce Banda of the African Union Elections Observation Mission declared the Botswana elections peaceful and transparent . The AU elections Observation Mission “encourages the government of Botswana to consider providing funding to registered political parties on an equitable basis”.

We move ballot boxes from polling stations to counting centres and this adds to the logistical and administrative plans and possible complications eg reports of one box arriving at a counting centre with a broken seal etc simply creating unnecessary problems for that returning officer

The counting process is transparent but as it is manual is tedious and slow.

There will be an observers’ report released for public consumption in two months.

SOCIAL MEDIA OBSERVATIONS
·      A suggestion that if one were to map out a nationwide 'poverty zone' and overlay the BDP votes there would be a high correlation
·      Suggestions that if one were to map a traditional voter/'rural zone' and overlay the BDP constituency wins there would be a high correlation (not sure if stats are available for this but relatively obvious geographically speaking where their voter strongholds are)
·      The rural zone has a high population of elderly voters. The youth who come from those ares are often working or studying in or near the city (urban zone)
·      In the urban zone (Gaborone and surrounding areas) - the majority of  UDC (opposition) votes are from here
·      The urban zone has a high population of youth – the universities are here, young employees, private sector employers, also a ‘new kind’ of poverty ie qualified but unemployed graduates, the most densely populated part of the country a kind of ghetto/low income area is also located here, land/home is also much harder to acquire here
·      The BDP in its capacity as the ruling administration has created a middle class by funding education and healthcare etc and this middle class holds them to a different standard than the traditional voters
·      Facebook is full of political conversations, a relatively new development for us, but there is also here the opportunity to misread the ‘general consensus’ as most commentators on facebook are arguably the middle class and urban population. Their average is not indicative of a national average.
·      There were a number of first time voters (hopefully I can dig up numbers indicating how many more voters registered for these elections versus 2009 counting backwards)
·      Social media played a large role in (informal) information dissemination and voter education

PRESIDENTIAL DEBATES
Gabz FM broadcast presidential debates that were aired on radio and television (not the national broadcaster but a private holding) the BDP did not send a representative. We have two official languages or one official and one national language ie English and Setswana. To my recollection the first debate was entirely in English, the second involved code switching between the two.

Some of the points raised during the debates were:

Debate 1: Televised parliamentary debates. Constitutional Review Committee. The SADC Gender protocol that Botswana ahs not ratified. Specialised court of appeal on labour law/issues. 
Botswana Housing Corporation's VAT on first time buyer property versus costs associated with the unserviced land provided by government to BHC. Incentive for employers who concern themselves with employees’ accommodation. The effectiveness or not of the Alcohol Levy. Absence of substance abuse institutions. Insider trading law. Disclosure of assets. Freedom of information bill. BCP has no official position on sex work and homo sexuality, its on their list of priorities but they have yet to discuss it. 
UDC's position not clear(to me) their president spoke of privacy/private morality and sections of the law which criminalize acts of homosexuality but not about a party position.

Debate 2:Economic diversity, capital intensive versus labour intensive industries, setting up of an agricultural commercial bank, national tourism board, government intervention versus basic set up of a conducive environment and leaving the market players to duke it out, stable business environment for investors versus short notice deportations, responsibility of public media in outing corruption (the position being that they currently distance themselves from any potentially anti-government reporting), current president's non participation/co-operation with media - the ruling party did not have a representative on the presidential debate panels, a whistle-blower protection program, an infant industry protection program, (post) grad education focus versus on the job training focus.


Context: The BDP has won elections since 1965. Here is a table indicating voter statistics

• 1965- BDP(80.4%) BPP (14.2%)BIP(4.6)
• 1969-BDP (68.8%) BNF (13.5%) BPP (12%)
• 1974- BDP (76.6%) BNF (11.5%) BPP (4.8%)
• 1979- BDP (75%) BNF (13%) BPP (7.4%)
• 1984- BDP (68%) BNF (20.4%) BPP (6.6%)
• 1989- BDP (64%) BNF (27%) BPP (4.3%)
• 1994-BDP (54.5%) BNF(37%) BPP (4%)
• 1999- BDP (54.3%) BNF (24.6%) BCP (11.3%) BAM (4.5%)
• 2004- BDP (50.6%) BNF (25.5%) BCP (16.3%) BAM (2.8%)
• 2009- BDP (52.3%) BNF (21.5%) BCP (18.8%) BPP (1.36%)
• 2014- BDP (46.7%) UDC (30.8%) BCP (19.5%)

RESULTS
We have 57 constituencies and this is how it went down:

37 BDP (returning party president is HE Seretse Khama Ian Khama, son of Botswana's first president and as of 28/10/14 serving his second and last term)

17 UDC (party president is Duma Boko, a human rights lawyer/advocate and first time voter)

03 BCP (party president is Dumelang Saleshando, served 2 parliamentary terms as opposition)

SPECIAL NOTES
Therefore the former President of Botswana (we have no sitting president on voting day) His Excellency Seretse Khama Ian Khama returns for his second and last term as president. He will be sworn in on Tuesday 28th October, 2014

Four (4) women have been confirmed as parliamentarians. 3 from the BDP and 1 from the UDC.

1 new UDC parliamentarian and its VP, Ndaba Gaolathe is the son of former and late BDP member and Minister of Finance Baledzi Gaolathe.

Six former cabinet ministers lost elections in their constituencies.

The former BCP stronghold of Gaborone Central was won by the UDC. This meant that the BCP party president lost his constituency.


NEW OPINION ON THE OPPOSITION
The opposition in Botswana has been viewed for many years, to put it bluntly, as a self-sabotaging laughing stock. At best mediocre.

The view being that they should have formed a coalition as that was likely their best bet for success, that they fall apart in the lead up to the each election. 
The 20 seats that the 2 current opposition parties (1 of them a coalition with 17 seats) have secured is the highest on record. They are clearly no longer considered a bunch of novices masquerading as politicians but as a bona fide opposition with considerable clout.

POST ELECTIONS
The President will elect four (4) specially elected members of parliament.

Appoint a cabinet of ministers to the various ministries.

New ambassadors will be appointed.

If you are eligible to vote and you actually registered and turned up and voted – this is why you’re hot. Well done, now go breathe down your parliamentarian’s neck and demand … service. Their names are as follows:

Botswana Democratic Party MPs
1.         Bobonong – Shaw Kgathi
2.         Boteti East – Sethomo Lelatisitswe
3.         Boteti West – Slumber Tsogwane
4.         Chobe – Machana Shamukani
5.         Francistown East – Buti Billy
6.         Francistown West – Ignatius Moswaane
7.         Gaborone South – Kagiso Molatlhegi
8.         Ghanzi South – Christiaan De Graaff
9.         Kanye North – Patrick Ralotsia
10.       Kgalagadi North – Itumeleng Moipisi
11.       Kgalagadi South – Frans Van Der Westhuisen
12.       Lentsweletau-Mmopane – Vincent Seretse
13.       Lerala-Maunatlala – Prince Maele
14.       Letlhakeng-Lephephe – Liakat Kablay
15.       Lobatse – Sadique Kebonang
16.       Mahalapye East – Botlogile Tshireletso
17.       Mahalapye West – Joseph Molefe
18.       Maun East – Kostantinos Markus
19.       Mmadinare – Kefentse Mzwinila
20.       Mmathethe-Molapowabojang – Alfred Madigele
21.       Moshupa-Manyana – Mokgweetsi Masisi
22.       Nata-Gweta – Polson Majaga
23.       Ngami – Thato Kgwerepe
24.       Nkange – Edwin Batshu
25.       Palapye – Master Goya
26.       Sefhare-Ramokgonami – Dorcas Makgato-Malesu (woman)
27.       Selebi Phikwe East – Nonofo Molefhi
28.       Serowe North – Kgotla Autlwetse
29.       Serowe South – Pelonomi Venson-Moitoi (woman)
30.       Serowe West – Tshekedi Khama
31.       Shashe West – Fidelis Molao
32.       Shoshong – Philip Makgalemele
33.       Takatokwane – Ngaka Ngaka
34.       Tati East – Guma Moyo
35.       Tati West – Biggie Butale
36.       Thamaga-Kumakwane – Tshenolo Mabeo
37.       Tonota South – Thapelo Olopeng

Umbrella for Democratic Change MPs
1.         Francistown South – Wynter Mmolotsi
2.         Gabane-Mmakgodi – Pius Mokgware
3.         Gaborone Bonnington North – Duma Boko
4.         Gaborone Bonnington South – Ndaba Gaolathe
5.         Gaborone Central – Phenyo Butale
6.         Gaborone North – Haskins Nkaigwa
7.         Ghanzi North – Noah Salakae
8.         Goodhope-Mabule – James Mothokgwane
9.         Jwaneng-Mabutsane – Shawn Ntlhaile
10.       Kanye South – Abram Kesupile
11.       Maun West – Tawana Moremi
12.       Mochudi East – Isaac Davids
13.       Mochudi West – Gilbert Mangole
14.       Mogoditshane – Sedirwa Kgoroba
15.       Molepolole South – Tlamelo Mmatli
16.       Molepolole North – Mohamed Khan
17.       Tlokweng – Same Bathobakae (woman)

Botswana Congress Party MPs
1.         Okavango – Bagalatia Arone
2.         Ramotswa – Samuel Rantuana
3.         Selebi Phikwe West – Dithapelo Keorapetse

Side note: This was election season in a number of countries, certainly in Tunisia, Ukraine, Brazil and Botswana. With voters making interesting choices in a number of these places.

All things constant I leave for Brazil soon, she too has just had a tightly run race, a campaign that also divided the country along class and geographical lines with a win by Dilma Rouseff and her workers’ party (a 52% vote against the opposition’s 48%). I hear since democratization in 1999 this is the slimmest margin on record. But I go to Brazil not to discuss politics but rather to read and workshop poetry writing and reading. I have no intention of quitting my day job(wrangling words), such as it is. Now that voting is done let us give back the daily politicking to the politicians and there chief whips, and let the poets do their thing.

WAS IN RIO. WISHED YOU WERE T/HERE

$
0
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Yeah so thats that. I was in Brazil at the invitation of the Museum of Art in Rio. A few caipirinhas, two workshops, one Universidade das Quebradas talk and one lecture alongside, South African poet and educator Joan Meterlekamp, later and I'm back home dreaming of Rio's mosquitoes and beaches and remembering her favelas and people - you know, the stuff poetry is made of.

Glossary:  
Carioca |ˌkarēˈōkə|

noun
1 
a native of Rio de Janeiro.

2 (carioca) a Brazilian dance resembling the samba.



Lazy man's diary entry.
I sat still in the middle of a forest with only 1 other person around faux-meditating, swung past Paulo Coelho's and Pele's homes, eaten who knows what manner of fish, checked out Christ the Redeemer's statue (which is cross-less and I've rather always liked that), danced Samba with the Atlantic for an afternoon, seen more half naked people in one week than I ever have in my entire life (I applaud anyone who is comfortable in their own skin), been to Copacabana and Ipanema to see what was so special about that girl that she got her own song (she should've gotten 2 if the locals are anything to go by), touched the edge of jungle so thick you better kiss the boy you have a crush on before going in because …unless they send the Hulk and the A team in after you you ain't coming back out, checked out Sugar Loaf mountain because who doesn't go to a place called sugar anything, suffered yatch envy at Botafogo, seen the Okavango Delta's twin (sister you need to come to Grumari and meet your brother), learnt that vultures' have cousins as protected as QE's swans in that other English speaking land, spoken fractured Portuguese till I was blue and pink in the face (thank you melanin how would anyone know), gained a shade of color, wondered if the one-way looking streets could accommodate both the vehicle I was in and the one hurtling my way at 14000 knots (given the humidity in the air surely that counts as traveling through liquid-y substance, no? well I'm here and I can cry if want to) and in conclusion Rio I am in awe of you. 
With all your mosquitoes and baggage and lightness and all, all that jazz you are my kind of guy…

And you dear reader, a few postcards for you below to help you navigate this country of 200 million people. Can you smell the sea? Wherever you are, I hope so.






















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